Embroidering the Soul: Phoebe Anna Traquair

Anna Chan

After the revamp of the National Galleries of Scotland in 2023, 12 brand new galleries are now open for viewing. The spotlight has been put onto many Scottish artists. Phoebe Anna Traquiar is one of these featured female artists; four magnificent life-sized tapestries by her are now on display in the new galleries.

 The Edinburgh-based artist Phoebe Anna Traquair was born in Dublin in 1852. She had moved to and worked in Edinburgh with her husband in 1874. She was a significant figure in Scottish art history and made major contributions to the Arts and Crafts movement. She was skilled at many forms of crafts, including embroidery, mural painting, illuminated manuscripts, easel painting, bookbinding, etc. Her mural decorations in chapels and churches contributed to the popularisation of decorative arts for a wider public, including the working class. In 1920, she was elected as an honorary member of the Royal Scottish Academy for her achievements and contribution to the art world.

One of her most famous works is the series of four embroidery pieces, The Progress of Soul, produced between 1895 and 1902. Like many of her other works, Traquiar explored the theme of the soul's journey, from innocence at birth to suffering, and ultimately rebirth and salvation. The embroidery was exquisitely done and deeply symbolic; the textile is infused with rich allegories and emotions. The style of her works was heavily influenced by the Pre-Raphaelites, featuring nature with vivid colours combined with a literature-inspired narrative. This series is loosely based on the story of Imaginary Portraits by the English writer Walter Pater: the young male figure was inspired by the character Denys L'Auxerrois in the book, and he represents the human soul in the pieces.

Phoebe Anna Traquair, The Progress of a Soul: The Entrance, 1895, Silk and gold thread embroidered on linen, 180.67 x 71.20 cm, Scottish National Gallery

The first panel is The Entrance, in which the figure is dressed in animal skin, standing among an idyllic natural landscape. He plays a harp and appears to be full of hope and joy. In this panel, he represents how when the soul enters the world, it is blissfully ignorant of pain and sadness. The rabbit, birds, and butterflies surrounding him symbolise the harmonious existence of the human soul in nature. For the embroidery on the animals and plants, Traquair employed a diverse range of stitches and patterns, creating vivid imagery and a sense of tactility. For instance, she created the texture of animal fur realistically by using a gradient of colours and flowing wavy stitches.

Phoebe Anna Traquair, The Progress of a Soul: The Stress, 1897, Silk and gold thread embroidered on linen, 180.67 x 71.20 cm, Scottish National Gallery

In the second panel, The Stress, Denys loses his youthful features; he has become more experienced but also disillusioned by harsh reality. The snake coiling around his leg is the source of his distress, symbolising the force of evil that is tormenting him. Nature is no longer a safe haven; hands are sprouting out from trees and clawing at him, while the birds take flight, agitated, as if warning him of the impending danger.

 Phoebe Anna Traquair, The Progress of a Soul: Despair, 1899, Silk and gold thread embroidered on linen, 184.70 x 74.90 cm, Scottish National Gallery

In the third panel, Despair, Denys is finally defeated by evil and despair, hanging from the tree and on the brink of death. The thorns tangled at his feet allude to the crucifixion of Jesus, introducing Christian symbolism to the narrative. The colour palette of this panel is significantly darker than the first two, creating a solemn, grim atmosphere.

Phoebe Anna Traquair, The Progress of a Soul: The Victory, 1902, Silk and gold thread embroidered on linen, 188.20 x 74.20 cm, Scottish National Gallery

In the last panel, The Victory, Denys is reborn into eternal life after being kissed by the red-winged angel. It is the ultimate salvation by Higher Powers after death and turbulence. This panel is more intense and colourful than the previous three panels, with the fiery red wings of the seraph and the rainbow in the background. The embroidery has become more intricate and meticulous; the shadowing and contours of the body are more well-defined and detailed. Traquair's use of contrasting colours and different patterns on the leaves and waves also add much more dimension to them. This shows the continuous improvement in Traquair’s skill of embroidery throughout the seven years of creating this series.

In The Progress of the Soul, Traquair captured an intense emotional experience of the soul's journey of growth while channelling her personal spiritual belief into the panels. This series of embroidery has helped pioneer the arts and crafts movement, blurring the boundaries between decorative and fine art by merging craftsmanship with Symbolist subjects and rich emotional depths. Beyond embroidery, Traquair's works in mural decorations, illumination, jewellery, and other crafts also earned her international acclaim during her lifetime. Much of her legacy has faded over the years and only recently been brought back into the spotlight by scholars and galleries. Her incredible craftsmanship and expressive storytelling have left a lasting impact on decorative arts. It is crucial for this to continue, to explore her works and honour her legacy

Bibliography

McLean, Pauline. “Scottish Art Takes Centre Stage after £38m Revamp at National Gallery.” BBC News, September 25, 2023. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-66889193. 

“Phoebe Anna Traquair.” National Galleries of Scotland. Accessed October 27, 2024. https://www.nationalgalleries.org/art-and-artists/features/phoebe-anna-traquair. 

“The Progress of a Soul: Despair by Phoebe Anna Traquair.” National Galleries of Scotland. Accessed October 28, 2024. https://www.nationalgalleries.org/art-and-artists/17410. 

“The Progress of a Soul: The Entrance by Phoebe Anna Traquair.” National Galleries of Scotland. Accessed October 27, 2024. https://www.nationalgalleries.org/art-and-artists/5519. 

“The Progress of a Soul: The Stress by Phoebe Anna Traquair.” National Galleries of Scotland. Accessed October 28, 2024. https://www.nationalgalleries.org/art-and-artists/17409. 

“The Progress of a Soul: The Victory by Phoebe Anna Traquair.” National Galleries of Scotland. Accessed October 28, 2024. https://www.nationalgalleries.org/art-and-artists/17411.